Black Diamond - ATC Guide

If your going to own one belay device, this is the one.  It's got all of the basic functionality you'll need out of a beginner belay device, with the savvy functionality of a specialty device as well.  

In the gym you'll appreciate the low friction smooth side for working with sweaty, thick static ropes.  While sending your 5.13+ projects on your 8.2mm rope, you'll appreciate the deep grooved high friction side for stopping that 35 ft. whooper your about to take.  

If you're a fan of belaying from the top and want to save the weight of the Gri-Gri, this device takes the lead of the heralded (but very difficult to use) Petzl Reverso.  The little loop of aluminum coming off of the device not only makes for a nice racking loop, it has a purpose... You can hang the device from an anchor point, putting it at an orientation that will automatically lock if tension is put on the climbers side.  This makes the device ideal for belaying 2 seconds while insuring that both of them have a safe catch.  Please note that lowering a climber requires a special action with this device. If you fall on an overhang or a difficult pitch that is difficult to get back on, lowering to a better location requires you to use the counter-lever loop (the small little loop) off the other side of the device.  See the directions below.  This is not a common occurence, and because of that little loop, its very easy to execute (where once upon a time with older devices, this was a major chore)

This device weighs in at just over the hearty ATCXP, and for a couple extra bucks, is well worth it for the additional functionality.  This is a device that you can use as a go to belay unit for years in a row.  The handling is awesome, and the setup is easy.  We give it a 10.   For more info, go here.